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  #11  
Old 02-08-2010, 10:51 PM
rdobirdman rdobirdman is offline
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I had set mine on the wide lobe only to .018 and then after I read about centering the cam I checked it on the narrow lobe and it was .024 or thereabouts. It had been running fine but I tapped on the cam to center it and got them both really close to .018 I think that if mine were really far off it would've bugged the crap outta me til I got it right. Even if I went to electronic it still would've bugged me that I couldn't get the gaps even on the points.
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  #12  
Old 02-08-2010, 10:51 PM
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Dogbone 80 Dogbone 80 is offline
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Omar's right...once ya leave points ya never go back....
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  #13  
Old 02-09-2010, 12:59 AM
kiwidave kiwidave is offline
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My dial indicator along with a lot of my tools is/are back in the UK for another few months anyway.......I can't be arsed spending any more money on points by buying another. There is movement though....

The cam bushing is 1yr/6,000miles old, likewise the camshaft....

Hey I am riding, but I just had to vent. Thanks for listening!

*awaiting the postman's knock with Crane Hi4 and coil.....*
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  #14  
Old 02-09-2010, 01:09 AM
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Hawg Ryder Hawg Ryder is offline
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As Stick says...with nice brand new OEM parts of top quality...you can get 'em almost dead even on both lobes...the book spec allows for .004 difference, but you can do better than that...you may have to "center" the advance base a time or two, but it's not all that difficult.

That being said...I have seen more than one brand new aftermarket advance base that just won't center. You can go buy another of the exact same brand and it'll be fine. Ya' just never know what you're getting nowadays. It got so bad that I started building up the worn holes in my stock OEM advance base with some silver bearing solder, then redrilling...and replacing the pivot studs the weights set upon with the studs outta' a new base...so I could reuse the original base in order to keep things centered.

But I gotta' say...when I finally crept a little teeny bit out of the cave I live in...and finally took the full electronic plunge...I don't miss points or mechanical advance at all...not one bit.
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  #15  
Old 02-09-2010, 01:34 AM
kiwidave kiwidave is offline
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well, that's more than good enough for me, Hawg...

I'll save them for roadside breakdowns for now.

While I am thinking of it, will I have any issues running the Crane Hi4 **WITHOUT** VOES for a while?

I have a VOES in the parts stash, but I'm probably gonna wait for winter to tear off the S&S Super E manifold and drill a hole for a VOES nipple.

And...what's the name of the hardware fitting I should be looking for to do that job (sits in manifold, VOES tube hooks up to it). Can I get it from the hardware store, Or am i looking for a CV carb part?
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  #16  
Old 02-09-2010, 01:55 AM
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mine is plastic .. nedit metal stuff holds it in ...small hole drilled first then a larger hole .. stepped hole"



i am sure i put the hole were it is meant to be ...

i would rather be ridding it to feel it...then looking at performance pics
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  #17  
Old 02-09-2010, 03:20 AM
rdobirdman rdobirdman is offline
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I'd like to go electronic but for now it's out of my price range, I do kinda like the simplicity of points though.
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  #18  
Old 02-09-2010, 04:59 AM
bob_e95482 bob_e95482 is online now
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I got tired of always messing with points and advance. I've been points-free for 6 years now, and couldn't be happier.
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  #19  
Old 02-09-2010, 06:08 AM
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If you have a place that sells parts for radio control airplanes, you can buy small brass nipples that will screw in. R/C airplanes use them to vent fuel tanks.
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  #20  
Old 02-09-2010, 09:27 AM
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Or if you know a welder...ask him for a MIG welding contact tip. It's a nice threaded fitting that works perfect. Drill the hole out larger through the middle of it...then drill/tap the manifold. They look like these:

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